Ajrakh: The ancient Indian textile print making waves in today’s fashion scene

By Ishwi Singh  |  First Published Nov 9, 2024, 10:26 AM IST

Ajrakh print, a beautiful Indian hand-block technique, is famous in Gujarat and Rajasthan. Adorned with blue and red colours, this print's history is linked to the Indus Valley Civilization. 

Ajrakh print has rapidly gained immense popularity in the fashion world. From sarees and kurtas to blouses and bags, this print is flying off the shelves. If you’re a fashion enthusiast, we’re here to provide you with everything you need to know about it.

Ajrakh is a traditional Indian hand-block printing technique that originates primarily from the Kutch region of Gujarat and Rajasthan. Renowned for its striking geometric patterns, this print showcases the artistry of natural dyes. The term 'Ajrakh' comes from Arabic, meaning 'blue,' which reflects the predominant colours used in this print, primarily shades of blue and red. What sets Ajrakh apart is not only its vibrant colours but also the intricate hand-block printing process that brings these designs to life.

History of Ajrakh Print

The roots of Ajrakh print are believed to date back to the Indus Valley Civilisation, which is around 4,500 years old. This art form flourished during the Mughal reign as well. Traditionally, Ajrakh print has been crafted in regions such as Sindh (now in Pakistan), Rajasthan, and Kutch in Gujarat. It was notably preserved and promoted by Muslim artisans. Today, this Indian art is celebrated and recognised worldwide.

How is Ajrakh Print made?

Fabric Preparation: The fabric for Ajrakh print undergoes several washes to eliminate impurities.

Dyeing: Initially, the fabric is dyed with harda, a natural whitening agent, which enhances its strength and smoothness.

Block Printing: Designs are applied using wooden blocks, which are meticulously prepared in advance for precise printing.

Use of Natural Dyes: Ajrakh print use natural dyes derived from plants and flowers. For instance, the blue hue comes from the indigo plant, while the red is sourced from a particular type of wood.

Repeated Washing and Dyeing: After printing, the fabric is dried in the sun and washed multiple times to set the colours.

Cost of Ajrakh Print

The price of Ajrakh printed fabrics varies based on quality, design, and material. Simple Ajrakh print scarves can range from Rs 1,000 to Rs 3,000, while cotton sarees typically cost between Rs 2,000 and Rs 5,000. Ajrakh designs on silk and other premium fabrics can range from Rs 5,000 to Rs 15,000 or even higher. Due to the handmade nature of these prints, prices can be quite steep, reflecting the artisans' hard work and the time involved in creating each piece.

Benefits of wearing Ajrakh Print

1. Use of natural dyes: Ajrakh printed fabrics are created using natural dyes, making them chemical-free. This ensures that they are skin-friendly and help reduce the risk of allergies or irritation.

2. Sustainable fashion: This print is eco-friendly, as it employs natural dyes and traditional methods that do not harm the environment. Ajrakh print symbolizes a commitment to environmental protection and awareness.

3. Breathable fabric: Ajrakh print is primarily applied to fabrics such as cotton and khadi, which are lightweight and breathable. These materials offer coolness in summer and comfort in winter, making them suitable for wear in any season.

4. Comfort: Ajrakh printed clothes are lightweight and comfortable, making them ideal for extended wear. They are particularly well-suited for summer, providing breathability and ease in warm weather.

5. Suitable for all occasions: Ajrakh printed clothes are versatile and can be worn for any occasion, from casual outings to special events. They are available in a variety of garments, including kurtas, sarees, scarves, and shirts, making it easy to incorporate this beautiful print into your wardrobe.

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